A Bit Breezy Up Top

On March 3, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

Sorry… I thought I’d got all the Offa’s Dyke posts from IG posted on WordPress….appears I didn’t.

A Bit Breezy Up Top
Wednesday August 21 2024

This morning we were returned to the Bwlch Penbarras to start our day with the climb up to Moel Famau, our highest point in the trail. Moel Famau was another of these “we can’t believe we never visited when we lived here” as it really was that close. Moel Famau is a somewhat popular spot to visit as it is adorned by the ruins of the Jubilee Tower. It was built to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of George III in 1810. I am guessing not by the Welsh.

It collapsed in 1862.

It was blown down by the wind.

Lori was very glad for the hat knitted for her by Carrie.

We had it to ourselves this morning. Well except for the crazy mountain biker doing hill repeats and a couple of very hardy fell runners.

The well built (and drained!) trails were a blessing after the overnight rain.

Today we were walking up and down the ridge of the Clwydian Hills, again taking in several Iron Age hill forts. Again forts that were well defended by the wind. At times I had to remove my cap for fear of losing it and on one occasion my glasses nearly blew off.

We forgoed climbing Moel Arthur because of the wind. The descent down to the Clwyd forest gave us a welcome respite. It was there we met a walker coming down from our next hilltop climb, Penycloddiau, who summed up the day wth perfect British understatement. “A bit breezy up top”.

We sheltered in a Iron Age ditch to eat our lunch then descended down to Bodfari to be rewarded by a fine cappuccino at the equally fine (and very popular) Dinorben Arms while awaiting our taxi to the hotel at Prestatyn.

15.68kms

Real Breakfast

On October 6, 2024September 24, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

Tuesday August 20 2024

Due to the lack of facilities along the path we were very prudent about what we chose for breakfast. Usually we had yoghurt mixed with granola and fruit. So when the server this morning asked “And what would you like for your real breakfast?” we politely declined, understanding full well what the outcome of indulging in a good fry up would be later in the morning.

Suitably abluted we were returned to Llandegla to rejoin the path.

We started out walking through the customary (damp) farmer’s fields alongside and over brooks and streams (rather ostentatiously called the River Alyn). As we climbed back up towards the hills we could stop to look back and remark “Goodness did we really come that far”.

We gradually climbed up the western ridge of Moel Y Plas, Moel Llanfair and Noel Gyw which afforded us views down into the Vale of Clwyd and eventually, as we climbed higher, further afield to distant Snowdonia. As we climbed higher we returned to the fields adorned with heather and gorse, and erm, “caressed” by the wind.

Rather than take the path around we chose to climb up and over the hill fort of Foel Fellni. This summit afforded us views of our path tomorrow over Moel Famau as well as views north east to The Wirral and Liverpool and even the Dee Estuary and our final destination.

Fellni was one of the many hill forts adorning the peaks of these hills. Though why one would need to fortify it was unclear as the wind was enough to keep anyone at bay.

We descended the sleep slope down into Bwlch Penbarras (and marvelled at those hiking up the other way). Here, instead of calling for our ride, we chose to walk the extra back to the Druid Inn. After a pleasant forest walk it became a bit more adventurous and uncertain as we were really walking through a farmers yard and then we picked the wrong side of the fence to continue down to the next style and so had to scramble back over a barb wire fence.

As a bookend that evening, Carrie and Josh from Rx Communications based nearby in Mold, came and picked us up for a tour of the office and then Carrie and family joined us for dinner back at the Druid.

Well it was obvious which side we should have gone once at the bottom

17.4km

To The Hills

On October 2, 2024October 5, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

Monday Aug 19 2024

Today’s journey started by climbing back up the canal then up to the ruins of Castel Dinas Bran.

Dinas Bran was to be the first of many Iron Age hill forts we would encounter in the Clwydian Hills which would be our path for the next several days. This one was converted to a castle in the 1260s but was then burned by its defenders lest it fall into the hands of Edward I (of Chirk Castle fame).

Now it is steadfastly defended by sheep.

We would also be leaving the crowds of Pontcysllte and Llangollen behind. We remarked how few people we met on the trail. Today would be no different.

As we climbed up towards the ruin we could look back and over the vale of Llangollen, including the eisteddfod tent where we famously didn’t see Pavarotti.

The path left Dinas Bran and took us the lee of Creigiau Eglwyseg. This was certainly the wildest part of the path so far. No more evident than in the name of “Rock Farm”!

We passed beneath Craig Arthur and Craig yr Adar and into the valley leading to World’s End.

Yes really.

But instead of taking that path we forded the stream and climbed up onto the moorland of Cyrn-y-Brain. The heather and gorse were in brilliant bloom. Our marvel at the spectacle as we crossed the wild and windy moor was not dampened by the drizzle that accompanied us. Well not much.

The path then descended down through a plantation of Sitka spruce in which we had to keep an eye out for mountain bikers. This then lead us into the village of Llandegla where we enjoyed our reward of a coffee and sausage roll while awaiting our pick-up to the Druid Inn at Llanferres. A fitting end to our medieval day.

And we settled in to watch some British TV

16.12 km

How do you say “Pontcysyllte”?

On September 28, 2024October 5, 2025 By paulmackeyIn Travel1 Comment

Sunday Aug 18 2024

Today we would be starting out from Castle Mill up the Ceriog Valley and making our way to Llangollen up the Dee valley. We were joined by Kerry, Paul and Jude as well as Anne Hendrie.

At the start of the day we had the choice to walk around the Castle ground on the official path or up through the grounds of Chirk Castle on the “summer route”. This route is closed in the winter for the grouse hunting season.

The summer route took us up to and around the Castle. It was originally built in 1310 by Edward I to lord over the (now defeated) Welsh. It passed to the Myddleton family who now maintain it more as a stately home under the care of the National Trust (the Myddletons were patients of the General Practice in Chirk when I was there).

The trail took us up more of Offa’s Dyke before veering west to (re)join the “proper” Offa’s Dyke Path which descended down to the Llangollen Canal.

A highlight of the day was to be walking across the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct that takes the canal across the wide Dee Valley between Froncysyttle and Trevor. An engineering marvel by Thomas Telford. And a very popular tourist attraction. Again, while I had done house calls here back in the day I don’t recall ever actually walking across the aqueduct.

More importantly, we found a canal boat selling very good coffee.

After lunch, instead of climbing up the Trevor Cliffs to follow the actual path we chose a leisurely walk alongside the canal up into Llangollen.

17.36km

And there was a train!

That evening the Lovedays kindly picked us up and transported us to their house in Knighton for a sumptuous dinner with them and Simon and Laura Rummens. Remembering the days at Shepparton (before Lori and I had arrived in the UK)

Memories (Rest Day)

On September 25, 2024October 5, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

Saturday August 17 2024

Usually most walkers have a rest day at the next stop in Llangollen. However, as we had our connections here in Chirk (and we felt we had “done” Llangollen) we elected to have our day here.

Chirk was where Paul worked as a General Practice trainee before we moved to Fort St John. Rob and Judy Greaves were tow of his preceptors so it was lovely to be able to stay with them and spend time at their lovely house. And to admire their solar and battery array!

To use some different muscles we had intended to head into Chirk proper for a swim but messed up the time. So we instead enjoyed a coffee and walked back to Rob and Judy’s house along a different public path.

Again, curiously, I think this was the first time we walked the full length of the aqueduct.

In the afternoon Robert, sensing my bitter disappointment at not seeing the standing stone ( and possibly indulging his own curiosity to see it) took us back to visit it.

I was impressed. I think Lori was impressed with her decision to not double back.

The relaxing day was rounded off with an enjoyable group dinner with several of Lori’s former work colleagues at the local Indian Restaurant. Kerry, Paul and Jude had come down from Manchester, Anne Hendrie up from Oswestry and even Steve Winter (who Lori had not seen for 30 years) joined us. He fortuitously lived so close by such that we would be walking past his house on the trail.

Our departure point the following day was to be just up the Ceriog Valley at Castle Mill. It is the one place that the Welsh defeated the English in Battle when Owain Glendwr defeated Henry II’s forces in 1165

The Welsh have long memories.

Mackey Musings

Tag: wales