A Swim to Finish

Sep 16 2025

Somewhere in reading up on things to see and do in Istanbul I found a google pin of a meeting point in the sea wall where a group would meet every morning for a swim in the Bosphorus. So we figured we’d give it a look. We hopped on a tram then walked around the horn. As we approached we started to find across a group already in their bathers walking towards us on the path, obviously having left their clothes at the exit point. And it was all men. In the end, as there seemed to be to be no obvious entry or exit pints other than the large rocks of the sea wall, there appeared to be a strong current and I didn’t have any water shoes, I thought it prudent not to risk an injury. 

So we wandered further around the horn then cut back up through what appeared to be the old town tourist and hotel area until we found an open cafe. That also wanted to sell us carpet. We continued I climb up to the Sultanahmet. Was nice to be up there before the crowds. Then back on the tram to the hotel. 

I had wanted to climb the Galata tower. Lori didn’t. 

Was a bit exi! €30 for non locals. And they threw in a set of headphones that I didn’t want nor need! Was nice to be up there, again before the crowds. Didn’t know that it was mostly built by the Genoese to intimidate the Ottomans. 

On my way back down Lori had been researching and wanted to visit the Princes Island. We realized if we dashed we could make the ferry. This meant we didn’t have time to get any more cash. Something which would become relevant later. We bought our 150 TLY each (cash only) tickets, thinking they were return tickets (again would be relevant later) and quickly after boarded the ferry to Kinaliada. 

After squeezing under the Galata bridge we crossed the Bosphorus for a stop on the Asian side then continued on to the island. 

We randomly decided to turn right and walk along the beach road, eventually coming to a very swanky yet very empty private club with a very nice 50m pool. Not to be. We were entertained by one of the members failing to turn her scooter, bashing it into the other scooters there. 

We continued up and over the bluff with views of the shoreline and the garbage, eventually coming to Noya Beach on the other side of the island. There appeared to be an option of a public beach but we decided to lay the $25 Can each to use the private beach as it also had a restaurant. Best $25 spent. We got access to the protected beach, lounge chairs, umbrella, showers and the swimming pool. But most importantly the pontoon access to the water, meaning we didn’t have to dance on the rocky beach. Thus we did get to swim in the Sea of Marmaris. 

Refreshed it was time to head back. We originally thought we would just circumnavigate the island. However a map just outside the beach entrance indicated there was a monastery at the top of what turned out to be a very steep hill. However the route turned out to be the better as we were afforded more views, including if the garbage avoided by not going the shoreline route. 

The monastery was closed. 

We descended the even more steep streets back to the main area dock side. Never saw we’d made the right beach choice as the ones this side were narrow and crowded. We decided to find a spot on the shade in a park before heading back to catch the first return ferry (at 4). 

It was here we discovered that our ticket was only one way and that we didn’t have enough cash to buy the return. Fortunately I’d scoped out the nearby only ATM on the island and fortunately it didn’t eat my card. 

Back in Galata it was another attempt to find Iskender kebap, this time in the Galata area. I have since discovered that, when walking up, we likely walked where Vlad Tepes head was likely buried. 

We squeezed our way through the crowds and chose to sit down indoors away from the noise and the smoke. Very glad I did the tower in the morning before the crowds and the queues. 

The kebap was meh. And the ice cream in the way down was not the fancy style. 

In all though was a great way to spend our last day. 

Squeaking under the Galata Bridge

We have carpets!

Sep 15 2025

Back in Istanbul we were able to “do” a few things we missed 30 years ago. 

Somehow we missed the information that breakfast was not included and the breakfast at the restaurant next door was disappointing. Where are the pistachio croissants? 

First step was getting a transit card then boarding the tram to head up to the Basilica Cisterns. It took us a bit to find the entrance. Bonus was we stumbled across the Stone of Million which was a Byzantine trig point. 

All roads lead to…

It didn’t take long for the hawkers to start harassing us. 

The Cisterns were a magnificent structure. Gave up trying to be polite for the people getting selfies. Just take the damn photo already. Unfortunately didn’t read the fine print that the audio tour was not included with the tickets we’d bought. 

Next we joined the throng heading to the Hagia Sofia. Again the fine print. Lori’s sweater wrapped to cover her head was not deemed adequate. So we had to buy a cheap head scarf. 

As with everything, lot more crowded than last time we were there! And also variable adherence to the rules. E.g. “no guided tour groups”. Really is a stupendous building. 

We then wandered along the Sultanahmet Meydani, built over the old hippodrome, in search of the obelisks. How they managed to transport them from Egypt‽?. And remarkable how well preserved they were, especially compared to the Roman plinth they were erected on. 

Our next target was more water works: the Aqueduct of Valens, but not before a very pleasant lunch of a seafood salad and mese on a patio watching the activity around us. 

Apparently one used to be able to walk on the aqueduct. Now there are small cafe tables nestled in the arches. 

We also stumbled upon the stone that marked the centre of old Istanbul as we made our way towards the university. Several quirky wooden buildings that stood out amongst all the stone and brick. Managed to find the Pharmacy faculty but got shooed away when we nonchalantly wandered into the courtyard. 

We then braved the covered Market but only for long enough to run the gauntlet of the hawkers and get to the other side. Even outside, as we were inspecting Constantine’s column, yet another guy wanted to sell us a carpet. 

Worn out we trammed back to the hotel to refresh and regroup before finding a great 4th floor restaurant (again running the gauntlet of the hawkers who tried to direct us to the wrong restaurant) for pistachio kebap and fine views. In the end it was fortunate we did not get the rooftop patio as there were smokers. 

We then ran the gauntlet of the restaurant hawkers (Dude we just ate!) on the Galata bridge to walk across and back. 

Another very full day. 

Cappadocia Too

Sep 14 2025

Very glad we weren’t talked into the balloon ride. We needed the sleep. We were still able to see some in flight just from the hotel and when Lori went out for a run. 

Did our usual of finding a local coffee place to enjoy the morning. 

Another very full day. Started with another overlook at another “castle” at Ortahis. But the biggest bonus was pistachio coffee!!! Why are we only finding about this now‽‽?  

It was then on to the Gorome outdoor museum which was already becoming quite busy. Here we were able to see some of the restored chapels. Unfortunately no photos were allowed. Well that’s what the sign said. Sometimes there was someone enforcing it. Not always. And certainly compliance was “flexible”. St Basil appeared prominently, however we read later that he probably did not build any of the churches as they predated his time. Constantine and his wife, St George and St Theodore (both on horseback) were also regular features. As Omer pointed out to us you could appreciate that it was a skilled painter(s) who did the work. In some places you could see where the early basic iconography had been painted over. 

Then another overlook, overlooking Gorome but the theme of which I’ve forgotten. Though there was one private house amongst them for around in which an 80 year old couple still lives. 

It was then onto lunch but this time in a “cave” restaurant. Which presented a challenge as I’d finally remembered to switch to my sunglasses just as we moved indoors. We enjoyed the traditional stew in the clay pots. Though I felt it wasn’t that great. Lori preferred it to the day before meal. 

It was then on to the pottery display. Fortunately the other woman in our group volunteered to be the volunteer. 

Then on to the mushroom caps where Omer described the geological process. As there was only one other couple today we were able to plug him with more questions. Also had random other tourist ask us to take a picture of him peeking through a hole. Then helped me climb up (and down) to do the same. 

Then finally it was onto imagination valley with formations that, well, you get it.. 

Then it was back to the hotel to await our airport transfer, the relatively haphazard “check-in”, security and boarding process. This time we took our bags as carry on. This saved us a bit of time at the other end though it was still over an hour back to the hotel as we landed at the airport on the Asian side. Thus it was after 11pm when we finally got (re) checked in. 

Clay pot stew

Definition of a cave?

Sep 13 2025

Cappadocia was everything it was expected to be. And more. But it was a long day. We (ok Paul) wanted to get to Cappadocia as it was another place we “missed” when we visited 30 years ago. 

Up at 3 for the 4 am to the airport.

The pick up at the airport was a bit haphazard. Ours was the _only_ guy not holding a sign. “Lori Marie” turned out to be the theme of the two days. Dropped at our hotel and after a very nice provided coffee we joined the group, I think all of which had been on the tour since yesterday and had done the balloon that morning. 

Going to be hard to get it all straight as the tour  packed it in. 

First stop was the fascinating underground city. Our guide was Omer. Originally from Antioch, he had studied tourism in the Cappadocia region. And he goes to museums on his day off. He was  a font of knowledge and very considerate and attentive.

It is disputed as to whether underground cities were permanent residences. They were refuges in time of attack. Usually from Arab invaders. It appears they were not hidden churches for Christians fleeing persecution. They dated from later when the Romans had adopted Christianity. 

In saying all that the city and its history were fascinating. The resourcefulness of the creation with the limited tools they would have had was remarkable. 

Managed to scrape my head only twice. 

Next it was the rock/gem/mineral shop for the big sell. Well actually it was not that big a sell. Especially compared to later in Istanbul. Did mean we got to see Sultanite, found only in Turkey. We didn’t spend long and instead headed across the road to the Pigeon Hole lookouts. Never thought of it in much detail but it is said this is where the expression comes from. The holes were originally created to enable collection of the guano. Now they’re just pigeon hang outs. 

Next it was lunch on a rooftop terrace in Gorome where we could enjoy our meal nestled in amongst more of the fascinating hoodoo formations. 

Then it was on to one of the natural “castles” where we were able to wander around a bit more in amongst the formations. 

Then it was “Love valley”. Omer very cleverly didn’t give much pre-explanation. The formations did that 🙃.

Then it was on to another area to climb up to an ancient 4th century church (St John the Baptist) carved out of the rock. Amazingly it was just there unprotected and unpreserved. Would see better preserved ones the following day but it was fascinating to see this one in its “original” form. 

Finally it was back to check into our “cave” hotel. We wonder what the criteria are to call a hotel a “cave” one, as not a lot of it was as such. However the pool/spa area was, and [x’s] (our very attentive staff member who checked us in) was to go straight there before it became crowded. Pro-tip! 

Not particularly hungry we wandered down into the town to have a look, bought Lori some pants and me some ice cream. 

Then we returned to the rooftop patio for a so-so red wine but a not at all so-so view of the fading light and emerging night lights. 

Big day. 

Borders

Sep 12 2025

A scheduled 1015 departure meant we could do a morning wander through the empty streets and eventually find a coffee and stock up on something for the bus trip to Istanbul.

As warned, the border crossing took time. First off the bus to exit Bulgaria, then back on the bus for the short trip to Turkish customs. Then off with luggage to go through customs. Seemed the usual chaotic as some guy who had appeared to have already gone through was brought back for some reason.

Meanwhile our border officer (dressed in civvies) nonchalantly takes his pistol out of his pocket and pops it in the closet behind him. We thought we’d got through pretty easily in the end until one of our group accidentally dropped his glasses in the xray machine. Somehow they got wedged in a spot that required partial dismantling of the machine to retrieve them.

We eventually arrived in Istanbul (no tire changed required) and then went by van to the hotel for a quick turn around out to the farewell dinner with a great view of the Golden Horn.

Coming full circle: just across the road from our hotel, somewhere on Bankalar St, is (allegedly) where Vlad Tepeş head was displayed on a pike, and then later buried after his defeat and capture by the Ottomans.

Not looking forward to the 3am wake up tomorrow.