The official itinerary called for a (very) short hike up to Okoto Lake, leaving the hotel at 0930. We felt this gave us the window to head out earlier and do a longer hike. So Georgi arranged for our driver to pick us up at 7am so we could attempt it. It took us a few false starts to find the actual trail head. Once we spotted the bridge that we knew had to be there to cross the river we were on our way. Most of the trail was ankle turning rocky and uneven. Certainly not an easy hike. It became even more is a scramble at times as we progressed beyond Okoto Lake. The morning light on the mountains was stunning. At Frog Lake we decided we still had enough time to push up to the ridge. Well worth it as it gave incredible views of the surrounding mountains and lakes. There was an option to go a little further up to a col with two more lakes but we had reached our turn around time. Back down at Frog Lake we made the unwise decision to take the “alternate” path back down that went around two more lakes: Long Banderista and Ribno. The paint trail markings quickly disappeared to replaced by the occasional cairn as we scrambled town what was essentially a rock wall next to a waterfall. Beautiful but treacherous. How I didn’t do an ankle..?
Morning lightSetting outTrail markersMoonset Okoto LakeNo frogs were seen.
This obviously chewed up a lot of time such that we made it back with 2 minutes to spare (for our noon deadline) just as everyone was ordering lunch.
In the end the giant sausage kept us waiting.
Little Todorka summitAt the summit Little Todorka summitNow which wayUnaware of what was to comePicking a path. What TF said was a trail. Looking back at the “trail”Shortcuts make for long detours. Big sausage
Not yet done the group walked down the narrow road to the 1000 year old tree that looked very much like Treebeard.
And the day was still not done. It was back down to Bansko to fetch our bags (and a quick espresso) to head to the train station to board Bulgaria’s only remaining narrow gauge train en route to the outskirts of Plovdiv where we switched to a commuter train.
TreebeardReward for effort. What fun.. Lori didn’t like the edges.
I mean how much fun can we have in one day‽
Grubby and tired (but happy:) it was out for a quick sub par donair then back for shower and bed.
Started out early looking for the recommended cafe that Google said opened at 7. Sign said 8 on Sundays. So we wandered back up into the “old town” to one that was open. Samurai cafe. The barista lovingly crafted our drinks. So lovingly in fact that mine was quite cold by the time it reached me.. and the queue lengthened. But the view was lovely.
Lovingly prepared Fine viewMore murals Bulgarian for “Pharmacy”
Fortunately the first item on the agenda was Turkish coffee. Which was hot and thick. Apparently the reading of my grounds indicated a tree. 🤷♂️
Turkish coffeeApparently my “fortune” was in the shape of a tree
Suitably caffeinated we were deposited at the Citadel gate to go for a wander. And to spend $100 dressing up as the King and Queen of Bulgaria for photos.
For the Xmas letter.
The citadel non-church was striking for its interior art work. It was never consecrated because the Queen who commissioned it also directed that it should be her visage used as that of the Madonna!
Look! A diorama!Pedestrian zoneTsarevets fortressInterior artTheir Majesties
After several false lunch starts we ended up at a very authentic Italian panini place. Bath tub sized iced coffees provided a welcome tonic to the heat. Poor guy was doing it hard all on his lonesome though.
That afternoon we were determined to hike. Georgi had sent us the location link to Kartala peak. The Google review of the part beyond to the waterfall said “OK if you have nothing else to do”.
Well the whole hike was kinda that. After hotly ascending through the city we started on a dusty scrubby trail. Google wanted us to walk straight through a fence. A very obscured arrow pointed us around the McMansion to the “view point”. Except not much of the citadel could be seen as most of the view point was in the out of bounds firing range.
The “sign”There it kinda isOK if.. Ah.. there’s the view!
As it was indicated the waterfall was only a km away we thought we’d press on.
OK about described it. Quite pretty but nothing spectacular.
Fortunately the climb back up was not as bad as we anticipated. And, back on the other side of the McMansion and on our way down we discovered the best views.
Iced coffeeGamzaDinnerMind the “pedestrians”
Dinner was back in the pedestrian area with a nice bottle of the Gamza we’d tasted earlier. While the waiting staff dodged the cars that frequently penetrated the pedestrian zone.
And a late posting of the Christmas 2024 letter as realized had not done so.
Perhaps more than other years, in 2024 we did a lot of reflecting on and reliving experiences along with healthy doses of looking forward.
As we write this, it is almost a year since Paul began the 28 weekdays of radiation in Kelowna. We were grateful to friends who allowed us to stay at their places in Kelowna and those who kept us distracted by meeting for coffee/dinner and skate-skiing. A year on, and with other therapy completed, Paul is looking forward to his hemoglobin and gut flora rebounding and fewer interruptions to his ski schedule.
Having the Northcote Mackeys come visit last Christmas was a most welcome gift. We packed in singing, skiing, going to the lights at the wildlife park, and playing games.
Our niece Zia stayed with us for a couple of months while she did a speech therapy practicum and we appreciated having someone of a different generation in the house again. She joined us for many activities, including skiing at Stake Lake and Sun Peaks.
A trip to San Fran and San Diego on the train (!) in April was a return to cities we had been to years before but this time in the company of our friends Becky and Leo, who brought their own memories of certain places as well as their creative background perspectives. We also had the opportunity to meet up with Wendee and Joyce, the journalist and her daughter we had met in Uganda in 2016. They continue to work in collaboration with the Batwa people to advance their health and children’s education ( https://www.redemptionsongfoundation.org/ ).
Hearing Billy Joel in concert again recalled previous concerts we had been to but incorporated his first new song in over 20 years!
In May, Paul and Thea had the opportunity to fulfil Thea’s childhood dream of seeing Machu Picchu, kindled in childhood by her reading (and rereading) a Thea Stilton book “Thea and the Lost City”. Their trip really involved looking back at the Inca past as well as the future of Peru and Bolivia in the respective cities of Lima and La Paz.
“Take A Hike” 2008
Our family expanded on July 7 when Liam and Rachel welcomed Joseph Nathaniel. Joey arrived somewhat early but quickly got into the groove of life on the outside. His resemblance to Liam, coupled with Paul’s recent efforts to transfer videos of our kids to the computer, brought back the early days of child-rearing. Now we are also looking forward to the joys of grand-parenting.
Liam 1998Joey 2025
Rachelle had the opportunity to enrol in a Climate Action course at Douglas College, which entailed travelling to Mexico to learn about traditional indigenous farming practices and current methods of harvesting coffee and cinnamon.
2004Teotihuacán
In August we travelled to the UK and hiked about 1/3 of the Offa’s Dyke path over 9 days. Before and during the hike, we reconnected with many friends. We appreciated having company on the trail and Lori got to spend time with previous colleagues from ADIS and meet new work contacts at Rx Communications. We also visited Rob & Judy who were significant mentors to Paul early in his training.
1995
We made a brief visit to the Republic and Northern Ireland, taking in a Saw Doctors concert (who we last saw perform circa 1994), and greatly appreciated our generous hosts Declan and Deirdre.
In October, Jeryn was able to accompany us on a short trip back to Australia. We mused that she had not travelled on her own with us since before Liam was born. The weather was great for hiking in Tasmania with Michelle C. Bronwyn and Peter hosted a wonderful Mackey family get-together to celebrate Paul’s aunt Noelle’s 88th birthday. Other highlights included paddle-boarding on the Yarra River (thanks Leesa and Ian); gin tasting at the fringe festival; checking out rural painted grain silos with Paul’s Dad, John, and Sandra; doing the ropes course with Anne; touring three botanic gardens; and seeing friends in Echuca and Melbourne.
1997
Lori continues to be involved in the four pharmacies she is a shareholder in, although learning the names of the new biological medications is getting increasingly more difficult the older she gets (iforgetamab, unprouncimib). Staffing continues to be a challenge; however, the staff we do have are professional and caring.
Paul’s locum anesthesia work has been focused on Williams Lake, Quesnel, and Fort St John for the most part. He is also contributing to various committees and groups and seems to be spending as many hours attending meetings as he is working.
This December marks the 10-year anniversary of the death of Paul’s Mum, followed in January by the same anniversary for Lori’s Mom. Hence, we have been reminiscing and considering their legacies and how they would have loved to have been great-grandmothers (and we note how we are resembling our mothers more).
20082011
Wishing all our friends and family a happy Christmas and lots to look forward to in 2025!
Sorry… I thought I’d got all the Offa’s Dyke posts from IG posted on WordPress….appears I didn’t.
A Bit Breezy Up Top Wednesday August 21 2024
This morning we were returned to the Bwlch Penbarras to start our day with the climb up to Moel Famau, our highest point in the trail. Moel Famau was another of these “we can’t believe we never visited when we lived here” as it really was that close. Moel Famau is a somewhat popular spot to visit as it is adorned by the ruins of the Jubilee Tower. It was built to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of George III in 1810. I am guessing not by the Welsh.
It collapsed in 1862.
It was blown down by the wind.
Lori was very glad for the hat knitted for her by Carrie.
We had it to ourselves this morning. Well except for the crazy mountain biker doing hill repeats and a couple of very hardy fell runners.
Ascending to Moel FamauMoel FamauLori’s HatThe Vale of ClwydPatchwork HeatherMulticoloured Heather
The well built (and drained!) trails were a blessing after the overnight rain.
Today we were walking up and down the ridge of the Clwydian Hills, again taking in several Iron Age hill forts. Again forts that were well defended by the wind. At times I had to remove my cap for fear of losing it and on one occasion my glasses nearly blew off.
We forgoed climbing Moel Arthur because of the wind. The descent down to the Clwyd forest gave us a welcome respite. It was there we met a walker coming down from our next hilltop climb, Penycloddiau, who summed up the day wth perfect British understatement. “A bit breezy up top”.
Moel ArthurHang on to your hatA seat. And therefore to sit.The Path AheadThe Path travelled (Moel Famau in the distance).Yes it was that windy.Looking back from Penycloddiau to Moel FamauSheltering from the wind for lunch.
We sheltered in a Iron Age ditch to eat our lunch then descended down to Bodfari to be rewarded by a fine cappuccino at the equally fine (and very popular) Dinorben Arms while awaiting our taxi to the hotel at Prestatyn.
Due to the lack of facilities along the path we were very prudent about what we chose for breakfast. Usually we had yoghurt mixed with granola and fruit. So when the server this morning asked “And what would you like for your real breakfast?” we politely declined, understanding full well what the outcome of indulging in a good fry up would be later in the morning.
Suitably abluted we were returned to Llandegla to rejoin the path.
We started out walking through the customary (damp) farmer’s fields alongside and over brooks and streams (rather ostentatiously called the River Alyn). As we climbed back up towards the hills we could stop to look back and remark “Goodness did we really come that far”.
That far to goRiver Alyn
We gradually climbed up the western ridge of Moel Y Plas, Moel Llanfair and Noel Gyw which afforded us views down into the Vale of Clwyd and eventually, as we climbed higher, further afield to distant Snowdonia. As we climbed higher we returned to the fields adorned with heather and gorse, and erm, “caressed” by the wind.
I think we can go around this oneSheep stand-offStand-off successfully negotiatedGorseHeatherNever pass up a seatGorse and HeatherTowards Snowdonia
Rather than take the path around we chose to climb up and over the hill fort of Foel Fellni. This summit afforded us views of our path tomorrow over Moel Famau as well as views north east to The Wirral and Liverpool and even the Dee Estuary and our final destination.
Fellni was one of the many hill forts adorning the peaks of these hills. Though why one would need to fortify it was unclear as the wind was enough to keep anyone at bay.
Foel FellniTowards Moel Famau and the Dee Estuary
We descended the sleep slope down into Bwlch Penbarras (and marvelled at those hiking up the other way). Here, instead of calling for our ride, we chose to walk the extra back to the Druid Inn. After a pleasant forest walk it became a bit more adventurous and uncertain as we were really walking through a farmers yard and then we picked the wrong side of the fence to continue down to the next style and so had to scramble back over a barb wire fence.
As a bookend that evening, Carrie and Josh from Rx Communications based nearby in Mold, came and picked us up for a tour of the office and then Carrie and family joined us for dinner back at the Druid.
Well it was obvious which side we should have gone once at the bottomAt Rx Communications
Today we would be starting out from Castle Mill up the Ceriog Valley and making our way to Llangollen up the Dee valley. We were joined by Kerry, Paul and Jude as well as Anne Hendrie.
Today’s TeamChirk Castle
At the start of the day we had the choice to walk around the Castle ground on the official path or up through the grounds of Chirk Castle on the “summer route”. This route is closed in the winter for the grouse hunting season.
The summer route took us up to and around the Castle. It was originally built in 1310 by Edward I to lord over the (now defeated) Welsh. It passed to the Myddleton family who now maintain it more as a stately home under the care of the National Trust (the Myddletons were patients of the General Practice in Chirk when I was there).
The trail took us up more of Offa’s Dyke before veering west to (re)join the “proper” Offa’s Dyke Path which descended down to the Llangollen Canal.
Pontcystlle AqueductAqueduct and DykeOur last contact with the Dyke
A highlight of the day was to be walking across the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct that takes the canal across the wide Dee Valley between Froncysyttle and Trevor. An engineering marvel by Thomas Telford. And a very popular tourist attraction. Again, while I had done house calls here back in the day I don’t recall ever actually walking across the aqueduct.
More importantly, we found a canal boat selling very good coffee.
Coffee!Canada Bill
After lunch, instead of climbing up the Trevor Cliffs to follow the actual path we chose a leisurely walk alongside the canal up into Llangollen.
Castel Dinas Bran
17.36km
And there was a train!
That evening the Lovedays kindly picked us up and transported us to their house in Knighton for a sumptuous dinner with them and Simon and Laura Rummens. Remembering the days at Shepparton (before Lori and I had arrived in the UK)
Mackey Musings 