OK if you have nothing else to do

On November 2, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

Sep 7 2025

Started out early looking for the recommended cafe that Google said opened at 7. Sign said 8 on Sundays. So we wandered back up into the “old town” to one that was open. Samurai cafe. The barista lovingly crafted our drinks. So lovingly in fact that mine was quite cold by the time it reached me.. and the queue lengthened. But the view was lovely.

Fortunately the first item on the agenda was Turkish coffee. Which was hot and thick. Apparently the reading of my grounds indicated a tree. 🤷‍♂️

Suitably caffeinated we were deposited at the Citadel gate to go for a wander. And to spend $100 dressing up as the King and Queen of Bulgaria for photos.

For the Xmas letter.

The citadel non-church was striking for its interior art work. It was never consecrated because the Queen who commissioned it also directed that it should be her visage used as that of the Madonna!

After several false lunch starts we ended up at a very authentic Italian panini place. Bath tub sized iced coffees provided a welcome tonic to the heat. Poor guy was doing it hard all on his lonesome though.

That afternoon we were determined to hike. Georgi had sent us the location link to Kartala peak. The Google review of the part beyond to the waterfall said “OK if you have nothing else to do”.

Well the whole hike was kinda that. After hotly ascending through the city we started on a dusty scrubby trail. Google wanted us to walk straight through a fence. A very obscured arrow pointed us around the McMansion to the “view point”. Except not much of the citadel could be seen as most of the view point was in the out of bounds firing range.

As it was indicated the waterfall was only a km away we thought we’d press on.

OK about described it. Quite pretty but nothing spectacular.

Fortunately the climb back up was not as bad as we anticipated. And, back on the other side of the McMansion and on our way down we discovered the best views.

Dinner was back in the pedestrian area with a nice bottle of the Gamza we’d tasted earlier. While the waiting staff dodged the cars that frequently penetrated the pedestrian zone.

Unification Day

On October 29, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

Sep 6 2025

Apparently the train between Bucharest and Veliko Tarnovo only runs once per day. Very slowly. So today was to be in the minibus across the Danube on the friendship bridge into Bulgaria.

We first passed through/around Georgi’s home town, Rousse. Looked very much a working town on the river. We continued across the Danubian plain and up into the foothills of the Balkan Mountains that divide(d) Bulgaria into its two historical parts, the northern principality of Bulgaria and the southern Roumelia of which Plovdiv was the capital.

They were unified on this day in 1885.

Veliko Tyrnovo was the capital until it was moved to Sofia after 1879.

Thus VT had that hill town, old capital feel to it. Checked into our hotel (situated on a steep hill) complete with towels arranged as elephants. Then it was time for a city tour with Georgi starting out with lunch (perched on a hill) then walking in the nominal pedestrian zone (as there appeared to be regular car intrusions).

After the tour it was wine tasting and the local grapes did not disappoint. Especially the red.

And the truffles were full of taste.

Having earlier been introduced to the statue of the four brothers across the river we thought we should be able to wind our way down the streets and cross the bridge. Except the bridge was a “bypass” of the road emerging from the tunnel. So we had to make our way back around past the tired yet impressive Hotel Veliko Tyrnovo and the wedding reception therein.

We eventually made our way onto the peninsula to get a closer look at the very dynamic monument of the Assen Dynasty whose uprising against the Ottomans ushered in the second Bulgarian Empire.

That evening, because of the aforementioned unification there was a light show projected onto the citadel. So we, and it appears every person in Bulgaria, made our way down to the forecourt to watch. Unfortunately I placed us right under the speaker. Still it was fantastic to experience.

On the way back we decided to stop for a drink and a pizza and watch the multitudes stream past. And multitudes there were.

Fortress Lights.

There are children here.

On October 27, 2025 By paulmackeyIn Travel1 Comment

Sep 5 2025

If you want to swim in Bucharest we’d suggest elsewhere.

The morning was the tour through the Palace of the Parliament. The GYG booking was a rip off. Essentially he just handed us off to the official guide. And we had to wait to enter as two people had been passed through the security point without paying. I mean they could have checked our wrist bands.

The fingerprint of communism.

The Palace was nuts. Versailles built in the 1980s. Incredible craftsmanship and design and with emphasis on Romanian craftsmanship. But mostly empty and unused. The amount of everything else that could have been done with the money instead…

At the end of the day there’s lots of room to…

After the tour we went on our quest for a swim. There appeared to be a public outdoor and indoor pool. Google was trying to send us a long way round. It appeared we could get in from the main road. No. This was a very broken and run down entrance to a stadium in a similar condition. And very blocked. So we went around the corner to what appeared to be entrance to the the workout gym and the basketball gym. But not the pools. Fortunately a pictographic sign indicated there might be an entrance a bit further up the road. So we did find a driveway and a lifeguard having a smoke waved us in. We sought out the person under the tent who couldn’t sell us a ticket but told us we could buy a ticket.. at the parking machine. Problem was the machine wouldn’t accept any of our cards, and only 10 RON notes. Well it might have accepted larger but that was scratched out.

So we thought we’d try inside the indoor pool. The attendant, literally hiding behind the desk, eventually told us she couldn’t sell us tickets to the outdoor pool. Only the indoor! She unhelpfully suggested we try another machine. Except there was none.

By then I was determined so I paid the 80 RON to swim indoor. Too expensive for Lori.

Then I had to figure out the maze of the change rooms with minimal to no signage. And my Romanian is not that flash.

Then another swimmer gives me the gears for being barefoot. Even though I was showering. When I walked out on to the swim deck he demanded I rewash my feet at the side of the pool saying “There are signs” (there was one that looked like it was stuck on a corner wall nowhere near the change rooms) and “There are children here” (Dude it’s the kids that bring the tinea in!).

And then I made the mistake of choosing his lane.

I think I got away with the error of not having a swim cap.

And the water was too warm.

We also learned that the trams and metro are on different ticket systems which meant a long walk back.

We walked because we had intended to stop at the nearby Cartureşti Carusel but, disappointingly, this one didn’t have a cafe like the one in the old town. Our main reason for going.

That afternoon we met our new guide Georgi, and group. Larger: 13. So will be a little more complicated to manage we think.

And we had dinner at the same restaurant.

Bucharest was not our bestie

Mind Where You Stand.

On October 25, 2025October 25, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

Sep 4 2025

Up again early to enjoy my coffee and second hand smoke in the square.

Went back to Shakespeare and Poetry for my coffee.

Then on the tram to the train station for the scenic train ride to Bucharest. The ride took us through the clever engineering of a big loop under the mountain to gain elevation.

Yes everyone else was oblivious.

Was a beautiful ride through the mountain pass. Just a shame that we couldn’t hike any of it.

Bucharest train station was the first on this trip where we felt like we had to hold onto our stuff carefully. Maybe because it was tired and run down. Just had time for a quick bite of a massive Indian donair before walking into the old town for our walking tour with extremely enthusiastic and entertaining Simona.

The rest of Bucharest is like the train station. A bit tired and run down. As the potato on the stick monument indicates, it still has the thumb print of communism on it. While there was some nice-ish bits our overall impression was not a warm one. Maybe because we were quite tired and hot by the end of the walking tour. And Simona’s regularly repeated phrase of, “You could go there but o wouldn’t really recommend it” wasn’t exactly buffing it up.

While Bucharest may have been touted as the Paris of the east in its hey day that day is long past. It could learn about regreening from Paris. The parks in Bucharest were hot, dry and uninviting. Where they could be found. And we were admonished for standing on the grass under the shade of a tree.

We then walked to our restaurant which was also just OK. But we toasted Collingwood beating Adelaide.

Monument to the fall of communism. AKA potato on a stick.

Carpathian

On October 21, 2025November 6, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

Sep 3 2025

Really really liked Braşov. As charming as Krakow but without the crowds. Was able to get up each morning and enjoy the quiet of the lovely town square. Me and the smokers.

Unfortunately we didn’t get to do any major hikes in Romania. But at least we got to hike up Mt Tampa behind Braşov. The hike up the main route was pleasant with good views back over the city. The hike down the back not so. Made all the less pleasant by the rude sounds of (what we later found out) was a car club roaring through the town. A car club where no muffler seemed to be the admission criteria.

The bonus of the back route then is that we came out at the Braşov Olympic Memorial. Lori found out that Nadia was not displayed there as she was not from Braşov. Fascinating old ski gear.

We then got directions up the alley to the marvellous old wooden Weavers Bastion. Never spotted anyone to pay our entry fee to. Enjoyed it totally on our own.

Visited the Black Church. Most interesting was the Ottomam carpets hanging all over and the guild sponsored pews. Also the contemporary Wedding at Cana painting by a Romanian painter (whose work we later saw at the gallery).

We tried to find the textile museum but we suspect it was buried under construction. So we enjoyed the local art gallery instead. With time to kill we sat in a park and I enjoyed a slightly better ice cream.

Bullet holes commemorating those killed in the uprising against communism.

Mihael had booked us the “farewell” dinner back up at the base of Mt Tampa so it was great to see the city lit up.

Full day.

Vlad didn’t sleep here. Or even come here.

On October 19, 2025October 20, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

Sep 2 2025

Apparently he wasn’t even imprisoned here.

Much of the interest in Bran Castle supposedly comes from Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Putting aside the fiction of vampires, apparently Stoker never visited here, (neither did Vlad) and Stoker’s descriptions of the Count’s castle don’t even appear close to anything that could confuse it with Bran.

Yet the town’s tourist industry appears unperturbed by these inconsistencies.

Every “Dracula” trinket imaginable was available. Including the plastic teeth.

The castle is an a lovely, and strategic, setting, overlooking the mountain road from the south. The fortifications here, built again by the invited Saxons, were important as defense against the Ottoman Empire. It now mainly houses a museum about the Romanian royal family, as it was used by them as a residence from 1920.

The views of the exterior were probably far more interesting than than the interior. Thus after a somewhat disappointing visit to the previously espied gingerbread shop we walked on a little further to a field to look back and admire.

It was here we stumbled across the Via Transylvanica, which stretches 1428 km across Romania. Every km is marked by a stone pillar and, as each one is individual, it is claimed this trail is also the world’s longest art gallery!

It was then on to Braşov, to another Casa Wagner in the main square. After lunch Mihail took us on a walking tour through the civic square, out through the city walls, up to the black tower, back down past Katharina gate, through Schei gate which used to be the main entry point into Brasov, through the narrowest street then back to the black church and the square.

Lori did not seem to enthused when I suggest we complete the 158 steps up to the white tower. However we did. However it had just closed at 5.

Hot and grimey we returned to the hotel. As lunch was large and late we didn’t need supper. However I did go out later in the cool of the evening to sit in the square and enjoy the experience. Not so much the disappointing ice cream which was no longer salted pistachio.

Evening activity in the square.

Mind Your Head

On October 16, 2025 By paulmackeyIn Travel2 Comments

Sep 1 2025

The morning was more exploring of Sighishoara, specifically finding out what was closed on Mondays (the Clock Tower, the Orthodox Church, the Tinsmith’s Bastion). But still much to explore before the town started to fill.

Climbed the covered stairs up to the “Church on the Hill” and the Rope Tower, which is the only bastion that is still lived in. Disturbed the occupant heading out to walk his dogs in the cemetery.

The afternoon it was out to rural Transylvania to Viscri. Means “White Church”, a fine example of a fortified church (and village) built by the invited Saxons.

Our host was Walter who traces his family back to these arrivals in the 12th century. Despite this distant correction he was still very evidently Germanic.

The original arrivals were presumably much shorter. Who presumably didn’t bang their heads on the low beams as often as me.

And what better way to round out the day than watching the return of the cows and enjoying a Transylvanian beer and supper of soup

Elvis Lives! In Transylvania.

On October 16, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

Aug 31 2025

We left the serenity of the Eastern Carpathians bound for the Transylvanian Platuea. Well, serenity except for the barking dogs (apparently barking at Mihael because he went for a “couldn’t sleep” walk!) and the roosters than need to get their clocks fixed.

Our destination was the walled city of Sighisoara. Its various names throughout the ages meaning “six walls”. When you’re on to a good thing. A marvellous medieval city and our hotel (Wagner) was perched right in the square.

Farewell to Ramona and the lovely Pensiunea Ardelean

Géza II of Hungary invited the Saxons to this region both for their craftsmanship but also to defend his eastern border. Apparently Géza also liked to borrow money. When his debt got to questionable levels the town cleverly said “Look, we’ll forgive your debt if you leave us alone and let us do our own thing”. Thus the guilds became responsible for defending the city.

The town is also known for Vlad Tepeş otherwise known as Vlad the Impaler or Vlad Dracula. Well except that, while his dad lived here, he didn’t. (He might have been born here). And he ruled Wallachia to the south. The “Dracula” indicated son of Vlad Dracul meaning Vlad of the house of the dragon. The Vlads would probably have gone down in history as just ones of many brutal regional warlords but for Bram Stoker’s co-opting of the name for his books.

This didn’t stop a whole (tourist) industry being born. Vlad slept here, Vlad ate here, Vlad drank here, Vlad impaled here.

And apparently Vlad was a pretty all around good guy according to the revisionist history children’s educational cartoon in the Blacksmith’s Bastion.

Our guide Mihail Chilingirov and the House of Vlad (senior).

It chanced that we arrived on the last day of the local cultural festival. It was such a joy sitting in the square (with a glass of wine) watching the various performances.. including Transylvania Elvis!

Yes Lori was dragged up to dance at one point

Maramureş

On October 11, 2025October 12, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

30 Aug 2025

Today was a full day in the Maramureş region. Lori started out with running the local gauntlet of the dogs. Our first visit was to the Bârsana Monastery, touted for being the oldest wooden monastery. Except that it was all rebuilt post 1989 (except for the Church of The Presentation of the Virgin 1720). Actually it’s a bit confusing. Another site says the wooden church (that’s actually UNESCO listed, not the monastery) is at Jbâr hill.

Anyways, it was still a spectacular and beautiful site.

Our local guide, Victor, demonstrated some of the artifacts. And was sure to emphasize multiple times that we not photograph the nuns.

We then moved on to the wooden Church of St Nicholas (definitely listed) in Budedti and arrived just as a memorial service was happening. Trying to be respectful we were not going to go up to and into the church but family members welcomed us up to the church and even offered us donuts, cabbage rolls and horincia. And were quite insistent.

We then travelled to Sighetu Marmatiei and the Memorial to Victims of Communism in the former prison where political prisoners were kept. Many were sent to then work as labourers on the Danube canal (didn’t know it even existed). The statue in the courtyard was a very moving portrayal of the various suffering of the inmates and the headless guard not aware of them. The chapel was also very thoughtful, the ceiling opening representing the fleeting view of the sky and the apple tree the prisoners had.

The next stop was the very quirky and unusual Merry Cemetery where the gravestones depicted, often with dark humour, the story of the demise of the person buried there. The man smoking while spraying trees for example. We won the prize of the son-in- law describing his mother-in-law’s death fridge magnet by spotting the memorial to the guy run over by the train.

Next a nearby water mill and distillery where Victor played violin for us while we sampled the pork fat and the horincia.

Another fine dinner at Ramona’s pensiunea. And more horincia! We forgoed the evening walk. Tired from the day and maybe a little too much horincia.

Romania

On October 9, 2025October 9, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

Aug 29 2025

What does one do in Debrecen Hungary? International half court basketball of course.

But first a train start for the day. Three separate trains, one with a tight connections, first from Eger back to Fuzesabony then Nyiregyhaza then on to Debrecen. Apparently the circuitous route was required because of track works. The benefits of a tour guide definitely came into play here making the connections, however, multiple people were very helpful making sure we transferred onto the correct train.

Debrecen was interesting for the design of the town square. Instead of the manicured flowers it appeared they had planted more native grasses and plants. And the water feature was refreshing on such a hot day.

Debrecen was also the seat of the Calvanist church, such that it has been dubbed the Calvanist Rome. The church was typical austere Calvanist.

Very good authentic pizza for lunch. Apparently the chef had participated in the pizza Olympics!

Also happening was in international half court basketball competition, including competitors from Ulaanbaatar!

Our drive from there took us up into the Carpathian Mountains in the Maramureş region of northern Romania, just near the Ukrainian border. It was quite strange looking across the river at what is Ukraine. Even though the war is so far away it still has its effects here as it has closed the normally very open border between the villages in this region.