Sep 15 2025

Back in Istanbul we were able to “do” a few things we missed 30 years ago. 

Somehow we missed the information that breakfast was not included and the breakfast at the restaurant next door was disappointing. Where are the pistachio croissants? 

First step was getting a transit card then boarding the tram to head up to the Basilica Cisterns. It took us a bit to find the entrance. Bonus was we stumbled across the Stone of Million which was a Byzantine trig point. 

It didn’t take long for the hawkers to start harassing us. 

The Cisterns were a magnificent structure. Gave up trying to be polite for the people getting selfies. Just take the damn photo already. Unfortunately didn’t read the fine print that the audio tour was not included with the tickets we’d bought. 

Next we joined the throng heading to the Hagia Sofia. Again the fine print. Lori’s sweater wrapped to cover her head was not deemed adequate. So we had to buy a cheap head scarf. 

As with everything, lot more crowded than last time we were there! And also variable adherence to the rules. E.g. “no guided tour groups”. Really is a stupendous building. 

We then wandered along the Sultanahmet Meydani, built over the old hippodrome, in search of the obelisks. How they managed to transport them from Egypt‽?. And remarkable how well preserved they were, especially compared to the Roman plinth they were erected on. 

Our next target was more water works: the Aqueduct of Valens, but not before a very pleasant lunch of a seafood salad and mese on a patio watching the activity around us. 

Apparently one used to be able to walk on the aqueduct. Now there are small cafe tables nestled in the arches. 

We also stumbled upon the stone that marked the centre of old Istanbul as we made our way towards the university. Several quirky wooden buildings that stood out amongst all the stone and brick. Managed to find the Pharmacy faculty but got shooed away when we nonchalantly wandered into the courtyard. 

We then braved the covered Market but only for long enough to run the gauntlet of the hawkers and get to the other side. Even outside, as we were inspecting Constantine’s column, yet another guy wanted to sell us a carpet. 

Worn out we trammed back to the hotel to refresh and regroup before finding a great 4th floor restaurant (again running the gauntlet of the hawkers who tried to direct us to the wrong restaurant) for pistachio kebap and fine views. In the end it was fortunate we did not get the rooftop patio as there were smokers. 

We then ran the gauntlet of the restaurant hawkers (Dude we just ate!) on the Galata bridge to walk across and back. 

Another very full day.