Budapest Bathing

On October 5, 2025November 6, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

Aug 27 2025

What does one do when it’s 30 degrees in Budapest? Why go for a swim at the Olympic Pool of course.

We arrived via overnight train from Krakow. Fortunately our hotel let us check in early and so we were able to freshen up a bit.

We set out on foot, mindful that Lori had developed a bit of tendonitis from dashing through the Salt Mine. We walked by the architecturally distinctive synagogue, the largest in Europe, built in the Moorish revival style. Our first target was the Budapest market hall, equally as architecturally impressive. Also impressive was the range of produce. Having purchased some much needed fruit we went in search of coffee as the first meagre offering of the day provided as the train pulled into Budapest had not sufficed.

The Cafe Lisboa, chosen to honour Lori’s affection, fit the bill, with additional pistachio heaven in the form of yet another pistachio croissant.

Next was the underground transit museum. Initially a little hard to find as it was, erm, underground. Also initially a little hard to get into as it accepted only cash. Rather odd given how efficient and non-cash oriented the transit system is.

For those who need to know Budapest had the first underground railway outside of London.

The day was already heating up so it was off to the Olympic pool to swim and sit in the shade for a bit. 33m made the distance calculation somewhat tricky.

Rejuvenated we decide to head to the Fisherman’s Bastion so that we (OK I) could follow up on the tip to sit in the Terrace Restaurant to enjoy a beer and some goulash. To also help rehydrate and resalinate after the swim.

Lori took her zoom meeting in a shaded alcove while I wandered a little.

It was then down the Schulek Staircase, back to the river so we could bus back to the hotel. By then it was quite hot and the bus was very full. Thus the AC failed to keep up.

Thus the need for a shower before our Intrepid Group meeting at 6. 7 of us in total including the guide. The others were all Australians (except our Bulgarian guide Mihail) and all far more travelled than us.

Dinner was at the guide booked restaurant of Vakvarju Paula. Cute decor and merch but the food was a little disappointing. Especially compared to the Georgian meal the night before.

Kopiec Kościuszki

On October 3, 2025November 6, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

Aug 26 2025

A Kosciuszko day. Started out before 7 walking around the old town before the crowds to get some photos and video. Was rather novel to also FaceTime with my Dad in Melbourne as I wandered.

Decided we’d head out first to Kosciuszko’s mound via tram then a pleasant hike up a wooded lane. The pre-mound museum was quite educational. Kosciuszko was quite an enlightened individual with a storied history. Honoured as a hero in two countries (Poland and the USA) And memorialized on a third (Australia)

Back to the AirBNB for a toilet and water refresh then it was off to try and do the underground museum. Booked out. Next the St Mary’s church and altar but mass was still going. So instead lunch at a quirky “toast” cafe called Butter. Lori had the mushroom toast, I the bulgogi. The toppings were stuffed into an exceptionally thick piece of toast!

This time we struck ok with the Pharmacy Museum. Apparently Pliny recommended the fat of the crocodile as a remedy for fever, fried body for the cure of sciatica, lumbago and chronic coughs, the gall for the treatment of cataract, the intestines for diseases of the eyes and as a cosmetic that restores the natural tints of the skin.

Then back to St Mary’s this time to wander the church and view the impressive altar which was dismantled and hidden during the war.

After another recharge it was back up to the Castle (via the Griffin Head pharmacy in hour of Paul’s mum) to tour the Cathedral and Cathedral museum. Visited the tomb of the aforementioned teenage female King St Jadweiga, whose dying wish was to fund the university. Also the tombs of Kosciuszko and Chopin.

Back to the AirBnB for another rest and recharge before back to the Market Hall for the free entry into the Polish art museum. Well renovated space. The story of the restoration of “Four in Hand” was fascinating.

Then a delightful drink on the terrace overlooking the square before back for another rest and recharge.

Dinner was at a Georgian restaurant which a very meek and petite street spruiker enticed us into. Sat next to a young couple visiting from Ukraine. Caught us both by surprise as we were under the (obvious erroneous) assumption that the war would have restricted movement.

Another r&r then off to snuggle in on our overnight train to Budapest. Was so great that our host let us use the place all day!!!

Krakow Morning

Dashing Through the Salt

On October 1, 2025October 5, 2025 By paulmackeyIn TravelLeave a comment

Aug 25 2025

Thirty years ago we’d also toured the salt mines but recalled very little of it as the tour was in Polish. We also had no pictures as we thought we weren’t allowed to take photos (and obviously couldn’t ask our guide). Anyway this time we had booked an English tour and had the camera.

But first it was coffee and breakfast… where we discovered pistachio heaven. The delight of a croissant filled with pistachio cream. And the nice thing about setting out early is that we got to enjoy the square and the town sans crowds.

The one thing we did recall about the salt mine was the three story mining elevator we had been crammed into, in the dark, to descend down to the mine. This time, thankfully, it was stairs.

While it was definitely better to have an English guide we feel that we could have been imparted a little more useful information other then the rapid fire script we were given as we almost raced through the 7000 steps we walked (almost jogged) through the mine.

The elevator we didn’t have to use this time

The dash through the museum was no slower.

But it did mean we made it back in time for the earlier train back to Krakow which meant we had a decent time for our lunch before our walking tour.

Didn’t start well. The guide started with a 51st state joke, and the group was worryingly large. But in the end what was to be 90 minutes ended up 2&1/2 hours of lots of interesting and entertaining information.

Of course the question will be how much we retain (amount rapidly dwindling).

Based on our Air BnB host’s recommendation we had booked dinner at a restaurant in the Jewish quarter which distilled their own vodka. Given the hype “we have squeezed you in at the bar but you have to be out by 8” we thought it would be crowded and quite high brow. But it was quite relaxed and several families were there. Including a baby that drove away everyone at the table next to us. I enjoyed the duck.. and a vodka. Can’t say it’s really my preference.

On our way back we semi spontaneously attended another Classics Greatest Hits concert at the Church of Peter and Paul. But again no patter and no explanation of changes to the program. We assume the Mozart Trumpet Concerto was omitted: no trumpet. The acoustics were a little better this time and certainly the organ was less muddy than in Berlin.

Morning in the square

Mackey Musings

Month: October 2025

Budapest Bathing

Kopiec Kościuszki

Dashing Through the Salt