Kopiec Kościuszki

Aug 26 2025

A Kosciuszko day. Started out before 7 walking around the old town before the crowds to get some photos and video. Was rather novel to also FaceTime with my Dad in Melbourne as I wandered.

Decided we’d head out first to Kosciuszko’s mound via tram then a pleasant hike up a wooded lane. The pre-mound museum was quite educational. Kosciuszko was quite an enlightened individual with a storied history. Honoured as a hero in two countries (Poland and the USA) And memorialized on a third (Australia)

Back to the AirBNB for a toilet and water refresh then it was off to try and do the underground museum. Booked out. Next the St Mary’s church and altar but mass was still going. So instead lunch at a quirky “toast” cafe called Butter. Lori had the mushroom toast, I the bulgogi. The toppings were stuffed into an exceptionally thick piece of toast!

This time we struck ok with the Pharmacy Museum. Apparently Pliny recommended the fat of the crocodile as a remedy for fever, fried body for the cure of sciatica, lumbago and chronic coughs, the gall for the treatment of cataract, the intestines for diseases of the eyes and as a cosmetic that restores the natural tints of the skin.

Then back to St Mary’s this time to wander the church and view the impressive altar which was dismantled and hidden during the war.

After another recharge it was back up to the Castle (via the Griffin Head pharmacy in hour of Paul’s mum) to tour the Cathedral and Cathedral museum. Visited the tomb of the aforementioned teenage female King St Jadweiga, whose dying wish was to fund the university. Also the tombs of Kosciuszko and Chopin.

Back to the AirBnB for another rest and recharge before back to the Market Hall for the free entry into the Polish art museum. Well renovated space. The story of the restoration of “Four in Hand” was fascinating.

Then a delightful drink on the terrace overlooking the square before back for another rest and recharge.

Dinner was at a Georgian restaurant which a very meek and petite street spruiker enticed us into. Sat next to a young couple visiting from Ukraine. Caught us both by surprise as we were under the (obvious erroneous) assumption that the war would have restricted movement.